Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
